Wings

Van's Aircraft offers a "QuickBuild" option for the wings. I decided that in order to have the airplane flying in the quickest time it would be nice to have the wings quick built by Van's quick build team called "Famous Secret" located in the Phillipines. We also ordered the quickbuild fuselage at the same time.

RV14A Empennage KitIt took 8 months, almost to the day, from the time we ordered the quickbuild kits until we received them at our hangar.

Wingstand

I built a wing stand so that when the wings arrive they can be placed in this cradle and moved around the hangar with ease.

Delivery Day!

RV14A Quickbuild Delivery

We made arrangements to have our quickbuild kits delivered by Tony Partain. They did a great job and they really know what they are doing!

RV14A Quickbuilds On The Truck

Here you can see our kits loaded on the truck. We were the fourth delivery that they made on this trip.

RV14A Quickbuilds Unloading From The Truck

There were only three of us at the hangar to do the unloading: the driver, my wife, and myself.

The fuselage was unloaded using a hoist system but the wings were unloaded by hand. We had no problems.

That wingstand really came in handy and made the job go smoothly!

*I wouldn't want less than three people here because handling the wings would be very tricky with only two people present.

RV14A Quickbuild Fuselage Side View

The wings are in the hangar!

RV14A Quickbuild Flaps

*The flaps, ailerons, landing light lens covers, hardware, and skin parts were all shipped inside of the fuselage.


Fabricating Aileron Torque Tube To Bellcrank Pushrods

As per step one, page 23-03 of the builder's manual two (CS-00012) aileron torque tube to bellcrank pushrods are to be fabricated from two (AT6-035x1 1/8) six foot long aluminum tubes.
The tubes are to be cut to a length of 64 1/4" each.

Fabricating Aileron Torque Tube To Bellcrank Pushrods

The lay out lines are drawn now to do the cuts!

Cutting Torque Tube To Bellcrank Pushrods With Bandsaw

I cut the two (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods using our bandsaw.
I sawed close to the lines drawn and then final sized and "squared up" the cuts using a stationary disc sander. The edges were then deburred.

Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrods

Since I was in the cutting mood, I jumped to step 1, page 23-04 of the builder's manual in order to fabricate two (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods.
These are cut down from a single 48" piece of powder coated (ST4130-035x1/2x48) tubing stock.
Each of the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods are to be 21 3/8" long (see figure 1, page 36-04) so I rough cut the tubing with a hacksaw and then final sized and "squared up" the ends on our stationary disc sander. Each of the edges were deburred after the process as well.

Torque Tube To Bellcrank Pushrods Cut To Size

The two (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods have been cut to size, now for the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods (CS-00013) to be cut...

CS-00013 Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrod Cut

The two (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods have been cut to final size.
Internal priming to go...

Preparing CS-00012 Pushrods For Priming

I scuffed the exterior surfaces of the two (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods with red ScotchBrite pads and washed them with acetone so that they could be primed later, but now I have to prime the interiors of the pushrods now.


Rubber Stopper

In order to make priming the interior of the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods less messy, I found two rubber stoppers at the hardware store so that I could plug up the ends and "swish" the paint around without getting paint all over the place....it helped but it's still a messy process!

Priming The Interior Of CS-00013

Here I am priming the interiors of the two (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods.

*I used PTI Zinc Chromate green primer.

Rubber Stopper

This rubber stopper was much harder to find but our local hardware store had some!

Priming The Interior Og CS-00012

Here I am priming the interiors of the two (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods.

*I used PTI Zinc Chromate green primer.

PTI Zinc Chromate Primer

This is the PTI Zinc Chromate primer that I used to paint the interiors of the pushrods.

PTI Zinc Chromate Primer

This is the PTI Zinc Chromate primer that I used to paint the interiors of the pushrods.

Title

Drip dry for a couple of days!


Drilling Template

I reproduced drill templates found in figure one on page 23-11, of the builder's manual out of manilla folder material so that I wouldn't have to reuse the cutout from the manual over and over again. It saved some time because I could just tape the template on the pushrod ends and not have to worry about being careful to tape and then un-tape the template as the center punching process progressed.

*Be sure to double check the accuracy of the printed scale on the page for your dimensions (1/2" x 3 9/16") before you use the templates. There are six "cross hair" guides per template.

Tape templates To Pushrods

As per step 2, on page 23-03 of the builder's manual, I aligned the pushrod drill template with the ends of the (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods and then secured it with clear tape.

The center punching process can begin!

Center Punching Pushrods

I used a spring loaded center punch to punch each of the six "cross hairs" that will be drilled in the next step.

#40 Drilling Template Guided Holes In Pushrods

As per step 2, on page 23-03 of the builder's manual, six #40 pilot holes were drilled into the ends of the (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods.

All of the holes were deburred after drilling.

Vee Block

I used a Vee Block to help keep things steady as I drilled.

VA-111 Threaded Rod Ends

Each of the torque tube to bellcrank pushrods will receive a threaded rod end fitting which is supposed to be inserted into the ends of the pushrod and have six #30 holes drilled into them; before I do that I want to debur each one and scuff the surfaces so that they can be primed later.

There are four (VA-111) threaded rod end fittings. These are the four (VA-111) threaded rod end fittings. They will be attached to the (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods.


VA-111 Threaded Rod Ends

After the deburring and scuffing process was done I used a sharpie to mark reference lines on the threaded rod end fittings where the torque tube to bellcrank pushrod end should line up with the fitting.

*Step 3 and figure 2, on page 23-03 of the builder's manual, show that the proper engagement is when the end of the pushrod coincides with the edge of the taper in the rod end fitting.

Proper End Alignment

According to figure 2, on page 23-03 of the builder's manual, this is what the proper alignment should look like. The taper of the threaded rod end fitting coincides with the end of the torque tube to bellcrank pushrod.

Now it's time to match drill #30 holes into the rod end fittings using the previously drilled #40 holes as guides.

Match Drilling The Rod End Fittings

I used a vee block jig clamped to the table to help support the pieces as I match drilled the #30 holes.

Cleco After Drilling Pilot Hole Upsizing

Clecos were inserted into each new hole as the drilling progressed around the circumference of the pushrod.

I also used the (MD3614M) rod end bearing to help keep the threaded rod end from slipping past the guide lines while drilling.

*Make sure to cover the bearing with something to keep aluminum bits from the bearing surface.

Clecoed Threaded Rod End Fitting

Six done, 18 more to go!

All Torque Tube To Bellcrank Pushrods Match Drilled

All of the torque tube to bellcrank pushrods and rod end fittings have the #30 holes match drilled now.

*Don't forget to mark the ends of the pushrods and the rod end fittings so that everything can be diassembled, deburred, and reassembled in the correct order!

After I disassembled all of the parts and deburred everything, I washed all of the parts with acetone in preparation for priming.

Deburring Pushrods

Debur, debur!

Marking Pushrod Ends

I use vinyl stick on letters to mark the ends of the pushrods and then prime a couple of thin coats and then remove the stickers and then one more thin coat of primer.

It's extra work I know but I really don't like to see the sharpie marker bleed through....you'll see the results a couple of photos down the page.

Marking Pushrod Ends

This is the other end. After everything was marked all of the parts were again washed with acetone in preparation for priming.


Primed Aileron Pushrods

The two (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods and the four (VA-111) threaded rod ends were primed with DupliColor DAP1690 self etching green primer.

Primed Aileron Pushrods

Here's a better shot.


Clecoed Aileron Pushrods For Assembly

I clecoed the four (VA-111) threaded rod ends to the two (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods in preparation for final riveting per step 3, page 23-03 of the builder's manual, and they will be assembled using the hardware callouts shown in figure 2 of the same page...(MSP-42) rivets.

*Remember what I was saying earlier about using the vinyl stickers to mark the ends with? Here you can see what the final look is.

Clecoed Aileron Pushrod For Assembly

Here's the other end.

Clecoed Aileron Pushrods For Assembly

All ready to be riveted with (MSP-42) rivets!


MSP-42 Rivets

In figure 2, page 23-03 of the builder's manual, the rivets that are called for in the assembly of the (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods are (MSP-42) rivets.

As you can see they are blind rivets.

Setting MSP-42 Rivets

I used our CherryMax G-27 hand rivet gun to set the MSP-42 rivets.

CS-00012 Rivet Setting

One set, 23 more to go!

CS-00012 Rivet Setting

There are six (MSP-42) rivets for each end.

CS-00012 Rivet Setting

CS-00012 Rod End Bearings

Figure three, on page 23-03, shows the hardware that is to be installed onto the (VA-111) threaded rod ends.

There are two (AN316-6R) jam nuts and two (MD3614M) rod end bearings for each (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrod.

Adjusting CS-00012 Length

After the (AN316-6R) jam nuts and the (MD3614M) rod end bearings were installed, the center-to-bearing-center lengths of the (CS-00012) torque tube to bellcrank pushrods were adjusted to 67 7/16" long. Final adjustments will be made once installed onto the airplane and the jam nuts will be final torqued.


Autopilot Roll Servo Pushrod

In step three, page 56-02 of the builder's manual, the (CS-00019) autopilot roll servo needs to be assembled.

There are five parts that go into the assembly: the servo pushrod tube, two (AN316-4R) jam nuts, and two (M3414M) rod end bearings.

Autopilot Roll Servo Pushrod

The center-to-center bearing length of the (CS-00019) autopilot roll servo pushrod needs to be adjusted to a length of five inches.

I set the length to five inches for now but there may need to be some final adjustments made once the assembly is installed and the jam nuts will be final torqued and marked with torque seal.

*The two nuts need to be torqued to a value between 14-20 inch/pounds.

Autopilot Roll Servo Pushrod

I labled the (CS-00019) autopilot roll servo pushrod with the number "19".


Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrods

Back to work on the (CS-000013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods; I need to mark guide points in order to drill two sets of holes on each end of the two pushrods so that threaded rods can be attached later.

One set of holes needs to be located 13/32" from the ends, and another set of holes needs to be marked 7/32" from the ends but oriented 90┬░ from the first set of holes.

*The measurements can be found by refering to figures one and two on page 23-04 of the builder's manual.

Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrods

This is what the holes will look like in the end once they are drilled.


Drill Press Setup For Drilling Pushrods

Make sure that you take note that these holes need to be drilled using a drill press and that they need to be supported in a "Vee block" as indicated in step two, on page 23-04 of the builder's manual.

I added a second "vee block" of wood to clamp down on the torque tube so that it won't rotate while the drilling process is done.....that can "mess up" the straightness of the hole and you might have to order new tubing and start all over again....don't ask me how I know!


The holes will be #40 drilled first and then later opened up to #30 holes.

Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrods

The (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods have been drilled and the holes deburred.

Threaded Rod Ends

There are four (AN490-HT8P) threaded rod ends that need to be attached to the drilled (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods.

Polish Threaded Rod Ends

The stock shafts of the (AN490-HT8P) threaded rod ends need to be polished so they will fit inside of the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods because the outside diameter of the threaded rod end is the same diameter as that of the inside diameter of the pushrod.


Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrods

Once the (AN490-HT8P) threaded rod ends were polished they can be fitted into the ends of the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods so that the #40 holes can be used as guides to match drill #30 holes into the shanks of the threaded rod ends.

*Make sure that the step of the threaded rod end is resting on the end of the bellcrank to aileron pushrod before drilling.

Match Drilling The Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrods

I used the "vee block" to support the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrod as I match drilled #30 holes into the (AN490-HT8P) threaded rod ends, clecoing each hole as the drilling progressed around the edges of the pushrods.

Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrod

The (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods were also marked so they could be reassembled in the same order after everything was diasassembled, deburred, and then reassembled.

Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrod

Two holes matched drilled on each end, two more on each end to go...


Installed Threaded Rod Ends To Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrods

As per step three, on page 23-04 of the builder's manual, the (AN490-HT8P) threaded rod ends were permanently installed to the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods with AN470AD4-11 rivets.

*I used our hand squeezer to set these rivets and squeezed each rivet a little at a time until they were finally set. It was tricky to do but if you take your time it isn't too bad.

Our pneumatic squeezer wasn't able to be used here because the longest rivet it can squeeze is a -7 rivet.


Priming The Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrod

I scuffed the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrod with a red ScotchBrite pad and then washed it with acetone in preparation for priming.

I primed the pushrod with Tempo A702 green zinc phosphate primer.


Topcoat The Bellcrank To Aileron Pushrod

Our airplane is going to be deep blue in color and I wanted to paint the (CS-00013) bellcrank to aileron pushrods with the final topcoat color before installing them into the wing because part of the pushrod will be exposed to the outside later after being installed. I wanted to make sure that the paint went far enough along the length of the bellcrank so that no primer would show when the aileron was fully deflected.

I painted the pushrods with Stewart Sytems Royal Blue EkoCrylic paint.


ADAHRS Parts

The aircraft ADAHRS (Air Data Attitude Heading Reference System) is mounted in the left wing (see section 20) of the RV14A. These are the two parts that it will be mounted with included in the Mount Bracket Assembly kit.

There is a (W-01423A) upper mounting bracket and a (W-01423B) lower mounting bracket.

ADAHRS Lower Bracket

This is the (W-01423B) lower mounting bracket.

I final reamed and deburred all #40 holes on the (W-01423B) lower ADAHRS mounting bracket.

The edges were then deburred on the (W-01423B) lower ADAHRS mounting bracket.

ADAHRS Lower Bracket

I scuffed all of the surfaces of the (W-01423B) lower ADAHRS mounting bracket with a red ScotchBrite pad.


ADAHRS Brackets Clecoed Together

As per step one, on page 62-02 of the builder's manual, the (W-01423A) upper ADAHRS mounting bracket was clecoed to the (W-01423B) lower ADAHRS mounting bracket so that the notches, already present in the lower bracket, could be transferred/traced to the (W-01423A) upper ADAHRS bracket and cut out to match the notches in the lower bracket.

ADAHRS Brackets Clecoed Together

These are the two notches that are to be transferred from the (W-01423B) lower ADAHRS bracket to the (W-01423A) upper ADAHRS bracket.

ADAHRS Upper Bracket

The corners were first radius drilled and then the straight cuts were done with a hacksaw to complete the "rough" removal of material in the notch making process to the (W-01423A) upper ADAHRS bracket.

Obviously these notches are rough and need to be final sized with a small file and sanded smooth.

ADAHRS Upper Bracket



All of the #40 holes were final reamed and deburred and all of the edges deburred on the (W-01423A) upper ADAHRS mounting bracket.


ADAHRS Countersnking Brackets

As per step two, on page 62-02 of the builder's manual all the #40 holes of the upper face of the (W-01423A) ADAHRS mounting bracket and the lower face of the (W-01423B) ADAHRS mounting bracket need to be countersunk so that they can be later double flush riveted together.

*I like to use a thick piece of metal behind what I am going to countersink so that the pilot guide of the countersink bit won't wander and create a oblong countersink hole.
This is why you see the bottom mount bracket is clecoed to a scrap piece of aluminum.

ADAHRS Countersinking Brackets

I used our debur tool and a #40 piloted countersink bit to make the counterunk holes in the (W-01423B) lower ADAHRS mounting bracket.

ADAHRS Lower Bracket Countersunk

*Remember, these countersinks are supposed to be on the lower face of the (W-01423B) lower ADAHRS mounting bracket.

ADAHRS Upper Bracket Countersunk

The (W-01423A) ADAHRS mounting bracket has to have the eight upper face #40 holes countersunk too.

The surfaces of the (W-01423A and W-01423B) ADAHRS mounting brackets were scuffed with a red ScotchBrite pad and then washed with acetone in preparation for priming.

ADAHRS Brackets Primed

I primed both pieces with Tempo A702 zinc phosphate green primer.


ADAHRS Brackets Clecoed For Double Flush Riveting

I clecoed the upper and lower ADAHRS mounting brackets together because as per step two, on page 62-02 of the builder's manual, the (W-01423A and W-01423B) ADAHRS mounting brackets are supposed to be double flush riveted together with AN426AD3-3.5 rivets.

ADAHRS Brackets Clecoed For Double Flush Riveted

Here's another view.

ADAHRS Brackets Double Flush Riveted

I double flush riveted the (W-01423A and W-01423B) ADAHRS mounting brackets together with AN426AD3-3.5 rivets.

This a view from the top.

ADAHRS Brackets Double Flush Riveted

This is what it looks like from the bottom.
Every other rivet on the upper surface of the (W-01432A) upper ADAHRS mounting bracket has a manufactured head, the same is true on the bottom side of the (W-01432B) lower ADAHRS mounting bracket.


EA-10 KIT

The EA-10 KIT aileron trim kit arrived so I thought I would unbox and inventory it and show what parts come in the kit.

EA-10 KIT

The electric aileron trim kit is an option that Van's Aircraft offers, we thought it would be nice to have aileron trim in our airplane. This is the contents of the kit:

ES MSTS-6A MAC trim drive .95"
Ray Allen T2-10A-TS servo, trim system
ES MSTS-WIRE 20 feet of wire
W-1033A aileron trim mount bracket
Bag 1010 hardware
Bag 1011 hardware
OP-38 instructions
RP4 LED indicator
RS2 rocker switch
RC8-7 7" clevis/pushrod kit

EA-10 KIT

This is the contents of BAG 1010:

ES-00044 molex plug mfit 6 POS
ES-00047 micro molex pins
VA-158 aileron trim springs
W-1017B aileron trim spring bracket
W-1033B aileron trim link
W-1033C aileron trim arm

EA-10 KIT

This is the contents of Bag 1011:

SB375-3 snap bushing
K1100-08 8-32 nutplates
LP4-3 rivets
AN515-6R8 pan head screws
AN509-8R8 structural screws
AN365-632A stop nuts 6-32
NAS1149FN432P washers
MS20392-1C9 clevis pins
MS24665-132 cotter pins

EA-10 KIT

This is the:

RP4 LED indicator
RS2 rocker switch
T2-10A SERVO aileron actuation trim servo

EA-10 KIT

This is the RC8-7, 7" clevis/pushrod kit.


Aileron Trim System Parts

These are some of the parts that are used to mount the electric aileron actuation trim in the inboard section of the right wing.

(W-1033A) forward and aft trim mounting brackets, (W-1033B) aileron trim links, and (W-1017B-L and W-1017B-R) aileron trim spring brackets need to be separated.

Separating Aileron Trim Mount Brackets

I am separating the (W-1033A) forward and aft aileron trim mounting brackets using our bandsaw.

After separating the aileron trim mounting brackets, I final reamed and deburred the #30 and #40 holes.

Separating Aileron Trim Links

As per steps three and four, on page OP38-02 of the builder's manual, the #30 holes in the (W-1033B) aileron trim links were #30 final reamed and then deburred.

The (W-1033B) aileron trim links were separated using our bandsaw.

Separating Aileron Trim Spring Brackets

As per step one, on page OP38-05 of the builder's manual, the (W-1017B-L and W-1017B-R) aileron trim spring brackets were #30 final reamed and then deburred.

The (W-1017B-L and W-1017B-R) aileron trim spring brackets were separated using the bandsaw.

Separated Aileron Trim Mount Parts

These are the parts that have been separated on the bandsaw.

The (W-1033C) aileron trim arm holes were deburred.

I edge deburred the (W-1033A) aft and forward trim mounting brackets.


Aileron Trim Mounting Brackets

After edge deburring the (W-1033A) aft and forward aileron trim mounting brackets, I scuffed the surfaces with a red ScotchBrite pad in preparation for eventual priming.

I final #19 drilled and deburred the four holes on the flanges where the #8 screws will go through.

Number 19 Drill Bit
Dimple Nutplate Holes

As per step five, on page OP38-04 of the builder's manual, the #40 holes were dimpled in the flanges of the (W-1033A) aft and forward aileron trim mounting brackets were the nutplates will be attached with AN426AD3-3.5 rivets later.

Dimple Nutplate Holes

The #40 holes in the K1100-08 nutplates need to be dimpled because AN426AD3-3.5 rivets will be used to attach them to the flanges of the (W-1033A) aft and forward aileron trim mounting brackets.
I will dimple these using our DRDT2 dimple machine.

Dimpled Nutplate Holes

You can see the dimpled K1100-08 nutplate in the right hand lower corner of this photograph.

Deburring Aileron Trim Links

I started to deburr the edges of the individual (W-1033B) aileron trim links and as each edge was deburred I went ahead and scuffed the surfaces with a red ScotchBrite pad in preparation for eventual priming.
Four done, four more to go....


Deburred Aileron Trim Links

Now I have all eight of the (W-1033B) aileron trim links edge deburred and the surfaces scuffed with a red ScotchBrite pad.

Deburring Aileron Trim Arm

It's time to debur the edges on the (W-1033C) aileron trim arm.
I checked the holes to make sure that the MS20392-1C9 clevis pin would fit and move freely without binding.

Aileron Trim Arm

After deburring the edges and the holes on the (W-1033C) aileron trim arm, I scuffed the surfaces with a red ScotchBrite pad in preparation for priming.

Deburring Aileron Trim Spring Brackets

The two (W-1017B-L and W-1017B-R) aileron trim spring brackets need to be deburred next.

Aileron Trim Spring Brackets

After the edges of the (W-1017B-L and W-1017B-R) aileron trim spring brackets and the holes deburred, I scuffed the surfaces with a red ScotchBrite pad in preparation for priming.

Priming Aileron Trim System Parts

All of the small aileron trim system parts were washed with acetone and primed with DupliColor DAP1690 self etching green primer.

Modifying Dimple Die

There are four #19 sized holes in the flanges of the (W-1033A) aft and forward aileron trim mounting brackets that need to be dimpled in order to receive a #8 sized screw.

These holes are located between two existing #40 dimpled holes so I need to find or modify a #8 screw dimple die so that I don't crush the existing dimples.

After searching for, and not being able to find a reduced diameter #8 screw female dimple die, I decided to modify the one full sized #8 screw female dimple die that I had.

I made size marks on the dimple die that needed to be reduced so I didn't overdo the reduction, next in order to get a symetrical size reduction on the die, I put it into the chuck of my hand drill and set the drill to rotate counterclockwise. Next this set up was taken to my bench grinder and I started to grind away excess material being careful to proceed slowly so as not to overheat the dimple die and not to grind off too much.

Modified Dimple Die

The size reduction turned out pretty good!

Test Dimple Die

I did a test run on a scrap piece of aluminum and it works!

Dimpled Flanges For Number Eight Screw

The #19 holes in the (W-1033A) aft and forward aileron trim mount bracket flanges were dimpled as per step five, on page OP38-04, figure one, of the builder's manual.


Primed Parts Of Aileron Trim System

The (W-1033A) aft and forward aileron trim mounting brackets were washed with acetone and primed with DupliColor DAP1690 self etching green primer.

Primed Parts Of Aileron Trim System

All of the parts of the aileron trim system have been primed so now it is time to put things together!


Assembly Of Aileron Trim System

As per step six, on page OP38-02, figure three of the builder's manual, the trim actuation assembly was assembled using clecos and the hardware call outs in figure three.

*Double check to make sure that the (W-1033C) aileron trim arm can move freely.

Riveting Aileron Trim System Mount

The (W-1033A) aft and forward aileron trim mounting brackets were riveted together using AN470AD4-7 rivets.

Riveting Aileron Trim System Mount

I set the AN470AD4-7 rivets with our pneumatic rivet squeezer.

Final Drill Trim Servo Mount Holes

As per step one, on page OP38-03 of the builder's manual, the #30 holes need to be final drilled to #28 size.

Aileron Trim Servo

This is the (T2-10A SERVO) aileron trim servo that needs to have the #30 holes in the flanges final drilled to #28 after it is clecoed to the aileron trim system assembly.

Match Drill Aileron Trim Servo Mount Holes

The (T2-10A SERVO) aileron trim servo has been clecoed into position onto the aileron trim system assembly and now the #30 holes will be #28 match drilled into the holes on the (W-1033A) aft and forward aileron trim mounting brackets.

Match Drill Aileron Trim Servo Mount Holes

Drilling the #28 holes!

After the four holes were final drilled, I disassembled the (T2-10A SERVO) aileron trim servo from the assembly and deburred the holes.

Reassemble The Aileron Trim Servo

After the holes for the (T2-10A SERVO) aileron trim servo and the holes just match drilled into the aileron trim system mount had been deburred, I reassembled everything using the hardware called out in figure one, on page OP38-03 of the builder's manual.

Electrical Connection For Aileron Trim Servo

Step three, on page OP38-03 of the builder's manual, calls for approimately 1/2" of insulation to be stripped from the ends of the five wires of the (T2-10A SERVO) aileron trim servo.

Before I stripped the individual wires, I created a shrink wrap label with our Dymo Label Manager 160 and slipped it over the wire bundle. The label reads "C406P Aileron Trim".

Labeled Aileron Trim Servo Wire Bundle

Here's a better picture of the label, I actually created two labels, don't want the wires flopping around!


Crimping Micro Molex Pins To Aileron Trim Servo

As per step one, on page OP38-06 of the builder's manual, (ES-00047) micro molex pins need to be crimped onto the ends of the wires coming out of the (T2-10A SERVO) aileron trim servo.

I am using a SteinAir SAT-018 Molex type/open barreled pin crimper to connect the (ES-00047) micro molex pins.

Here is where you can buy the SteinAir SAT-018

It's definitely tricky to get those tiny (ES-00047) micro molex pins in place.

Micro Molex Pins Installed

The (ES-00047) micro molex pins have been installed.

Heat Shrink Tubing On Aileron Trim Servo

I used our heat gun to shrink the tubing on the wires of the (T2-10A SERVO) aileron trim servo.

A (ES-00044) molex plug was installed onto the (W-1033A) forward aileron trim mounting bracket.

Molex Plug Labeled

I labeled the (ES-00044) molex plug "C406P" with a silver sharpie before installing it.

Aileron Trim Servo Pins To Be Installed Into Molex Plug

These wires (ES-00047) micro molex pins will be inserted into the (ES-00044) molex plug later.

Aileron Torque Tubes

The (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes have been powder coated and they need to be deburred and excess powder coating smoothed out.

Deburring CS-00009 Aileron Torque Tubes

I started on the ends of the (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes, here you can see the excess powder coating that needs to be smoothed out.

Deburred CS-00009 Aileron Torque Tubes

I have deburred and smoothed out the ends of both (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes.

The insides of the tubes need to be sanded because there is some excess powder coating around the pre-drilled holes that interferes with the torque tube collars and pushrod ends inserting easily.

Deburred Torque Tube Collar Stock Material

I deburred the ends of this (ST4130 .025x7/8x22") MILT 6736B 4130 tubing that will eventually be cut into two (CS-00009B) torque tube collars.


Installing VA-162 Pushrod End To CS-00009

As per step one, page 23-06, figure one of the builder's manual, a (VA-162) pushrod end was inserted into the long end of a (CS-00009) aileron torque tube until the shoulder of the pushrod rested on the end of the (CS-00009) aileron torque tube.

Installing VA-162 Pushrod End To CS-00009

The second (VA-162) pushrod end was inserted likewise to the second (CS-00009) aileron torque tube.

Match Drilling Holes Into VA-162 Pushrod Ends

The (CS-00009) aileron torque tube was placed into a V-block centering jig support so that #30 holes in the ends of the aileron torque tube could be match drilled into the (VA-162) pushrod ends.

Match Drilling Holes Into VA-162 Pushrod Ends

The V-block and (CS-00009) aileron torque tube was clamped to the tabletop so nothing moved as the #30 holes were match drilled.

Cleco Holes as Drilling Progresses

There are two holes per (CS-00009) aileron torque tube to be drilled, a cleco was inserted as drilling progressed to maintain alignment.

Rotate CS-00009 To Finish Match Drilling

I rotated the (CS-00009) aileron torque tube to finish #30 match drilling the second hole.

Mark Ends Of CS-00009 Aileron Torque Tube For Disassembly

I placed a mark on the (CS-00009) aileron torque tube so that the pieces could be disassembled, deburred, and then reassembled in the same order.

Mark Ends Of CS-00009 For Disassembly

Just like the first (CS-00009) aileron torque tube, I marked the second one so that it could be disassembled for deburring and reassembled in the original order.

Both (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes and (VA-162) pushrod ends were disassembled and deburred.

CS-00009 Torque Tube Subassembly

After the (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes were deburred, they were reassembled so that the (VA-162) pushrods could be riveted to them.

Riveting CS-00009 And VA-162 Together

The (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes and the (VA-162) pushrod ends are to be riveted together using MSP-42 blind rivets.

Riveting CS-00009 And VA-162 Together

The (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes and the (VA-162) pushrod ends were riveted together using our CherryMax G-27 hand rivet gun.

CS-00009 Subassembly

The first one is done.

CS-00009 Subassembly

Now there are two!

*The two (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes are now to be referred to as "CS-00009 torque tube subassemblies".


Deburring WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tube

The (WD-1014) aileron torque tubes need to have the ends deburred and also have excess powder coating that needs to be smoothed out.

*There are two of these and they are shorter than the (CS-00009) aileron torque tubes.

Insert VA-162 Into WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tubes

After the ends of the (WD-1014) aileron torque tubes were deburred, per step two, on page 23-06 of the builder's manual and referencing figure two, (VA-162) pushrod ends were inserted into the short ends of the (WD-1014) aileron torque tube so that the shoulders of the pushrod ends rested on the ends of the aileron torque tubes.

Match Drill WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tube

The (WD-1014) aileron torque tube was placed into a V-block centering jig support so that #30 holes in the ends of the aileron torque tube could be match drilled into the (VA-162) pushrod ends.

Match Drilling WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tube

The process of match drilling the #30 holes of the (WD-1014) aileron torque tubes into the (VA-162) pushrod ends is very similar to what was done when fabricating the (CS-00009) aileron torque tube assemblies....deja vue all over again!

Match Drilling WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tube

Of course as drilling progresses, clecos are inserted to help maintain alignment.

Match Drilling WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tube

Rotate the assembly and match drill the second hole.

Mark WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tube Before Disassembly

After the #30 holes have been match drilled the assembly was marked, disassembled, and deburred in preparation for riveting everything together.

Riveting WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tube

The (WD-1014) aileron torque tubes and the (VA-162) pushrod ends were riveted together using MSP-42 blind rivets set with our CherryMax hand rivet gun.

Riveting WD-1014 Aileron Torque Tube

There are two unused holes in the (WD-1014) aileron torque tubes that need to be closed up with additional MSP-42 rivets, that was done on both aileron torque tubes.

*The assemblies are now to be referred to as "WD-1014 torque tube subassemblies".

Torque Tube Collar Fabrication

I cut out one of the two (CS-00009B) torque tube collars from the stock (ST4130 .025x7/8x22") tubing using our bandsaw.
The collar is 7 5/16" long.

*This is pretty tough steel so don't be surprised if you find yourself shopping for a new bandsaw blade after cutting these!


Deburring W-421-R Aileron Bellcrank

The (W-421-R) aileron bellcrank needs to have the ends deburred and some of the powdercoating removed.

The insides of the pivot tubes will also have to be smooth sanded some so that bushings can be easily inserted.

*The right (W-421-R) aileron bellcrank is going to receive a nutplate because we intend to install an autopilot on our airplane and this is where an autopilot servo pushrod will be attached.

Deburred Pivot Tube On W-421-R

The pivot Tubes on the (W-421-R) aileron bellcrank have been filed and smoothed out.

As you can see the metal is quite thick on these!

Final Drill Holes On W-421-R

As per step one, on page 23-05, figure one of the builder's manual, the #40 holes were final reamed and deburred. The holes indicated in figure one, page 23-05, were final #12 drilled in the (W-421-R) aileron bellcrank and deburred.

The #40 holes on the (W-421-R) right aileron bellcrank need to be machine countersunk to fit a head of a AN426AD3-3.5 rivet.

As you can see a K1000-3 nutplate has been riveted to the opposite arm of the bellcrank, I did this using our hand squeezer to set AN426AD3-3.5 rivets.

Deburr Brass Bushings

As per step two, on page 23-05 of the builder's manual, I verified that the two (BUSH BS- .245x.375x2.781) aileron bushings were the proper 2 3/4" length and that a AN4-32A bolt would fit the inside diameter.

These are the bushings, the ends were deburred.

Fit Bushings To Aileron Bellcrank

The (BUSH BS- .245x.375x2.781) bushings fit into the pivot tubes but are slightly snug so I am going to polish the bushings and also "fine tune" the inside diameters of the bellcrank pivot tubes.

Aileron Bellcrank Bushings

The AN4-32A bolts fit inside the (BUSH BS- .245x.375x2.781) bushings but they were slightly snug too so I "fine tuned" this with some light sandpaper on a dowel and a red ScotchBrite pad which did the trick!

Deburr W-421-L Bellcrank

Time to deburr the left (W-421-L) aileron bellcrank!

Deburred W-421-L Bellcrank

I deburred the left (W-421-L) aileron bellcrank and final #12 drilled the holes and deburred them.


W-421-L Aileron Bellcrank

The inside diameter of the (W-421-L) left aileron bellcrank pivot tube has been done so that it easily receives the (BUSH BS- .245x.375x2.781) aileron bushing.

W-421 Aileron Bellcranks And Bushings

As you can see the (BUSH BS- .245x.375x2.781) aileron bushings have been polished.

Trim W-421 Aileron Bellcrank Pivot Tube

The (W-421-L and W-421-R) aileron pivot tubes have been adjusted so that they sit at between 1/32" and 1/16" shorter than the (BUSH BS- .245x.375x2.781) aileron bushing.


Primed Aileron Bellcrank

I primed the exposed bare metal areas on the (WD-421-L and WD-421-R) aileron bellcranks with Krylon MAXX white primer.

Remove Wing Access Plate

I need to remove the right inboard (W-822PP) wing access plate in order to install the aileron trim actuation assembly to it.

Remove Wing Access Plate

The (W-822PP) wing access plate was removed from the right wing inboard section.

Deburr W-822PP

Here is the (W-822PP) right wing access plate that will get the trim actuation assembly attached to it.

Deburr W-822PP

The inner surface of the inboard right wing access plate was primed at the Van's Quick Build factory.

Deburr W-822PP

There are four more (W-822PP) wing access plates that need the edges deburred.

Deburr W-822PP

Three done one to go....


Deburr W-822PP

I finished deburring the edges of the last (WD-822PP) wing access plate.

Now it's time to move on to mounting the aileron trim actuation assembly to the right inboard wing access plate.

Mounting Aileron Trim Assembly To W-822PP

As per step one, on page OP38-04, referencing figure one, the aileron actuation assembly is to be mounted 3/4" from the trailing edge of the interior surface of the (W-822PP) wing access plate and 1 1/2" from the right edge.

I drew reference lines to help everything line up.

Mounting Aileron Trim Assembly To W-822PP

Here is what it looks like when aligned correctly.

The four holes where the #8 screws will go through need to be marked and drilled to a final size #19 hole as per step four, on page OP38-04 of the builder's manual.

Drilled Holes In W-822PP

The four holes were #19 final drilled and deburred.

Dimple Die Setup

The (K1100-08) nutplates will be riveted to the flanges of the trim actuation assembly.
I used a reduced diameter flush set on one side of our hand squeezer, so that there would be plenty of clearance between the die and the center post of the nutplate, and a normal flush set on the other side.

Nutplates Riveted To Trim Actuation Assembly

As per step six, on page OP38-04 of the builder's manual, the (K1100-08) nutplates were riveted to the bottom flanges of the aileron trim assembly with AN426AD3-3.5 rivets using our hand squeezer.

Nutplates Installed
Nutplates Installed
Dimple W-822PP Screw Holes

As per step seven, on page OP38-04 of the builder's manual, the four #19 holes in the (W-822PP) right inboard wing access plate were dimpled with a #8 screw dimple die set in order to receive a AN509-8R8 screw.

Installed Aileron Trim Actuator To W-822PP

The aileron trim actuation assembly was attached to the (W-822PP) right inboard wing access plate with four AN509-8R8 screws.


Check Aileron Trim Actuator Clearance In Wing

As per step ten, on page OP38-04 of the builder's manual, the right inboard wing access plate (W-822PP) was re-installed onto the right wing to check fit and clearances between the trim actuation assembly and components installed in the wing, particularly the (W-00004-R) bottom inboard wing skin.

All checked out okay.

Check Aileron Trim Actuator Clearance In Wing

Here is what the inside of the right wing with the aileron trim actuator assembly installed looks like.


Torque Tube Collar

The second (CC-00009B) torque tube collar was cut to 7 5/16" in length from the (ST4130- .025x7/8x22") tube stock as per step three, on page 23-06 of the builder's manual.

Torque Tube Collar

A line was drawn around the circumference of both (CS-00009B) torque tube collars 1 1/2" from the end.

Match Drill CS-00009B Torque Tube Collar

The (CS-00009B) torque tube collars were inserted into the (CS-00009) aileron torque tube assemblies, up to the 1 1/2" line as per figure three, on page 23-06 of the builder's manual, so that the #30 holes pre-drilled in the (CS-00009) aileron torque tube assemblies could be match drilled into the (CS-00009B) torque tube collars.

The assemblies were placed into our V-block centering jig and then clamped to the work bench and the holes were #30 match drilled into the (CS-00009B) torque tube collars, clecos being inserted as the drilling progressed.

Match Drill Torque Tube Collar

There are four holes that needed match drilling in each (CS-00009B) torque tube collar.

Match Drill Torque Tube Collar

One more to go!

Match Drill Torque Tube Collar

After the four holes have been #30 match drilled, they will have to be final drilled with a #12 drill bit.

Match Drilling Torque Tube Collar

I am #12 drilling all the way through the first set of holes.

Final Drilling Torque Tube Collars

A AN3-13A bolt was inserted into the first set of #12 final drilled holes before moving on to the second set.

Marked Torque Tube Before Disassembly

I marked the (CS-00009B) torque tube collars and the (CS-00009) torque tube assemblies so that they could be disassembled, deburred, and then reassembled in the same original configuration as per step four, page 23-06 of the builder's manual.

Torque Tube Assembly
Torque Tube Assembly

Now everything has to be disassembled, deburred, and primed.


Clocking Jig

As per step one, paragraph six, on page 23-07 of the builder's manual, a spacer block is used to "clock" the position between the torque tube collar and the torque tube assembly.

I used a small piece of aluminum to construct my spacer.
I chose to make a spacer out of aluminum because if the distance measured between a flat surface and a bolt that is in the arm of the (WD-1014) aft torque tube subassembly is measured to 1 and 1/64 of an inch, I don't want it to be made out of wood that can swell and throw the "clocking" off.

As you can see I created a cradle that the AN3-13A bolt will rest in and it will be 1 1/64" above the flat surface.

Clocking Jig

This is what the clocking jig looks like. It is made from a piece of aluminum angle.

This spacer is used for the proper clocking of the (CS-00009) torque tube sub assemblies, the (CS-00009B) torque tube collars, and the (WD-1014) aft torque tube assemblies as seen in figures two and four on page 23-07.

Final Drill Holes In Torque Tube Arms

Before I set up the torque tube assemblies and torque tube collars that need to be "clocked" I need to #12 final drill the holes in the arms of each of the (CS-00009) torque tube subassemblies and the (WD-1014) torque tube subassemblies as per step four, on page 23-06 of the builder's manual and shown in figures two and four.

This is the (CS-00009) torque tube subassembly.

Final Drill Holes In Torque Tube Arms

This is the #12 final drilling of the (WD-1014) torque tube subassembly.

Final Drilled Holes In Torque Tube Arms

Holes final drilled to #12, now on to "clocking"!


Match Drill And Clocking Torque Tubes

As per step one, on page 23-07 of the builder's manual, I inserted the aft, bolted end, of the (CS-00009-L) left forward torque tube assembly into the open end of a (WD-1014) torque tube subassembly.

An AN3-13A bolt was inserted through the hole in the arm of the (WD-1014) torque tube assembly and then the 1 1/64" jig was placed under the bolt so that the clocking requirement was met as per figure three on page 23-07.

Match Drill And Clocking Torque Tubes


The overall length of the sub assemblies were adjusted to a length of 17 49/64" as per figure one.

Once I was satisfied that the overall length was correct and the clocking was correct, I clamped everything to the large flat back rivet plate we have so that it was secure.

Match Drill Torque Tube Collar

*Make sure that the arm of the (CS-00009-L) forward torque tube assembly is flat against the surface.

Mark Surfaces For Orientation After Disassembly

I marked this piece with three dots and an "L" so that everything can be properly oriented at all times.

Match Drilling Torque Tube Collar

As per step two, on page 23-07 of the builder's manual, #30 holes were matched drilled into the (CS-00009B) torque tube collar using the holes in the (WD-1014) aft torque tube subassembly as drill guides.
Clecos were inserted as the match drilling progressed.

Match Drilling Torque Tube Collar

*The manual says that after you get the first #30 hole match drilled and clecoed you can move the assembly off of the flat surface to finish match drilling the next three holes but I was able to reach an additional hole and cleco it so I felt better moving the assembly with two holes clecoed.

Match Drilling Torque Tube Collar

After two of the holes were match drilled and clecoed, I moved the assembly to a "Vee" block to #30 match drill the remainingtwo holes.

I fabricated two hold down blocks the same diameter as the (CS-00009B) torque tube collar so that the assembly wouldn't shift any during the final drilling stages.

You can't have too many clamps!

Match Drilling Torque Tube Collar

Cleco as you go!

Final Drilling Torque Tube Collar

The newly match drilled #30 holes now have to be final drilled to #12 size. There are four on this assembly to do.

I final drilled the first hole to #12 size and then rotated the part and then #12 final drilled the opposite hole.

Final Drilling Torque Tube Collar

After drilling the first two holes to #12 size, an AN3-13A bolt, washer, and nut were installed before moving on to the second set of holes.

Final Drilling Torque Tube Collar

It's just a matter of repeating the #12 final drilling process for the second set of holes.

I inserted a second AN3-13A bolt, washer, and nut before moving it out of the "Vee" block.

Final Drilled Torque Tube Collar

The left Torque tube assembly is done, now onto the right side!

Match Drilling Right Torque Tube Collar

*Basically the right side torque tube assembly is a mirror image of the left side but now you use figure four on page 23-07 as a guide.

The bolted end of the right (CS00009-R) forward torque tube assembly is inserted into the open end of the remaining (WD-1014) aft torque tube subassembly.

An AN3-13A bolt was inserted through the hole in the arm of the (WD-1014) torque tube assembly and then the 1 1/64" jig was placed under the bolt so that the clocking requirement was met as per figure four on page 23-07.

Marked Torque Tube Collar Assembly For Orientation

I marked this piece with four dots and an "R" so that everything can be properly oriented at all times.

Adjust Overall Length Of Torque Tube Assembly

The overall length of the sub assemblies were adjusted to a length of 17 49/64" as per figure one.

Once I was satisfied that the overall length was correct and the clocking was correct, I clamped everything to the large flat back rivet plate we have so that it was secure.

Keep Arm Of Torque Tube Flat On Table

Don't forget to keep the arm of the (WD-1014) aft torque tube subassembly flat against the surface!

Match Drill Torque Tube Collar

Just like before I was able to #30 match drill two of the holes into the (CS-00009B) torque tube collar and cleco them before moving the assembly off of the back rivet plate onto the "Vee" block for the next two holes to be drilled.

Match Drill Torque Tube Collar

All of the holes have been #30 match drilled into the (CS-00009B) torque tube collar....Final #12 drilling is next!

Final Drill Torque Tube Collar

The first set of holes have been final drilled to #12 size and an AN3-13A bolt, washer, and nut installed.

Final Drill Torque Tube Collar

The second set of holes are #12 final sized too.

Finished Right Side Torque Tube Assembly

Well, the right side is done being drilled too!

Disassemble All Parts For Deburring And Painting

Now I have to take these all apart and deburr the holes and prime and paint the bare metal parts.


Deburr And Prime Torque Tube Assembly Parts

Both (CS-00009) torque tube assemblies, (WD-1014) aft torque tube assemblies, and (CS-00009B) torque tube collars were disassembled and all of the holes deburred.

I cleaned the parts off with acetone so that they can be primed.
The insides of all the torque tubes, as well as the outsides of the (CS-00009B) torque tube collars, were primed with Krylon MAXX 9188 white primer.

Torque Tube Collar Priming Preparation

The (CS-00009B) torque tube collars are going to recieve primer but I am also going to give the exposed middle section a coat of topcoat paint.

Torque Tube Assembly Insides Primed

I masked off the exteriors of the (CS-00009) forward torque tube subassemblies and the (WD-1014) aft torque tube subassemblies and just sprayed the insides with the Krylon MAXX 9188 white primer.
(The paint spread through out the interior very well.)

Torque Tube Assemblies Painted

The torque tube subassembly interiors have been primed and I gave the exteriors of the (CS-00009B) torque tube collars a topcoat of VHT high temp SP128 gloss yellow enamel.


Torque Tube Assemblies Put Back Together Temporarily

As per step four, on page 23-06 of the builder's manual, the (CS-00009) forward torque tube subassemblies, the (WD-1014) aft torque tube subassemblies, and the (CS-00009B) torque tube collars were temporarily reassembled using the hardware callouts in figure four.

*I reinstalled the parts without grease and only "finger tight" for now since they will be partially disassembled when it comes time to install them on the wings later.

So on to the fuselage.......▶
◀.......Click here to go back to the tailcone.

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